Improvement in sewing-machine gage for tucking, felling, binding



M. A. DUFFY.

Sewing MachineA Gage. Y No'. 59,983. Patented Nov.: 27.1866.

UNITED STATES PATENT GEEIGE.

MARY A. DUFFY, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MACHINE GAGE FOR TUCKING, VFELLING, BINDING, dc.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 59,983, dated November27, 1866.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, MARY A. DUFFY, of the city, county, and State of NewYork, have invented a new and Improved Extension Tucking, Binding,Felling, Hemming, and Overhand-Seatning Gage; and I herebydeclare thatthe following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, referencebeing had to the accompanying drawings, making a part of thisspecication, and p the letters of reference marked thereon, in whichVthe same letter represents the same thing in each figure. l

Figure l is a top view of my improved gage, showing its-arrangement whenused for tucking; Fig. 1a, a side elevation, showing the folds of thecloth; Fig. 2, atop View, showing its arrangement whenused for binding,felling, or heinining; Fig. 3, a side view when used for felling; Fig.4, a side view when used with a shuttle-machine, or preparatory forshuttle -niachine hemmers to turn the fell; Fig. 5, a side view whenused for plain seaming and as a substitute for basting; Fig. 6, a sideview when used for plain or flat binding or ordinary trimming; Fig. 7, aside view when used for edge binding or securing a binding on both4,sides of an edge of cloth;

Fig. 8, a side view when used for -hemming;

Fig. 9, a top view with plates reversed for overhand-seaming; Fig. 9a, alongitudinal section, showing the relative position of the parts inoverhandseaming;' Fig. 10, a top view of the tucking-plate; Fig. 11, aside view of the saine; Fig. 12, a top view of the plate andgage-holder; Fig. 13, a cross-section of the saine through w Fig. 14, aside view of thc tucking-gage; Fig. 15, a top view of the saine; Fig.16, a top view of the guide-plate; Fig.

17, a side view of the same; Fig. 1S, a topview of the hemming, binding,and felling plate; Fig. 19, a side view-of the same; Fig. 20, across-section thereof through y y; Fig. 21, a top view of the hemming,felling, and ,binding guide; Fig. 22, a side view of the same; Fig. 23,a bottom view of the saine; Figs. 241l and 25, end views of the same.

. Arepresents the tucking-plate; B,the plate and gage holder; C, thecloth; D, the tuckinggage; E, the folding-plate; F, the hemming,binding, and felling plate; G, thehem ming, binding, and felling guide;H H, the

` slots in plate-holder B and hemming-plateF,

to accommodate tongue T and set-screw L; I, the slot by whichplate-holder B is secured to the machine in tucking J, the slot by whichit is secured when the gage is used for all other seams; K, the stop oftucking-gage D, which prevents the turned cloth from coming too far andgetting under the needle; L, the adjusting set-screw; M, the set-screwfor tuncking` gage D; P, the slotted presser-foot of a sewing-machine,through which the needle descends; T T, the tongues of folding-guide G.

The nature of my improvement consists in making an adjustable gage forsewing-machines of such parts and pieces so adapted and fitted to eachother that bydifferent arrange` ments thereof the several operations oftuckin g, binding, fellin g, hemmin g, and overhandseaming may all beperformed thereby, and a sec-` ond tuck may be turned and creased whilethe previous tuck is being stitched, and work pre4 pared for a fellwithout bastin g or leaving any" waste cloth tothe cut oft.

I will now describe the modes of operation by which these results areseverallyattained.

To tuck, secure plate and gage holder B to` the sewing-machine by theusual set-screw thereof through slotI, havin g previously placedtucking-plate A beneath holder B, with its screw coming through, andscrew-head sliding in groove- H, set in or out, as a wide or narrowspace between the tucks or wide or narrow tuoking is desired. Placefolding-plate F in the groove of plate-holder B, over slot H, its

extremity the thickness of the cloth distant from the extremity oftucking-plate A. Place tucking-gage D over slot J, its stop Kin theslotof presser-foot l? of the sewing-machine. Secure tucking-plate A andfolding-plate Ein place by adjusting set-screw L, and tucking` gage D byits set-screw M.` Fold the cloth about twice the width of the tucksdesired, adding cloth enough to space between the tucks, if there is tobe a space, and pass it between the inner and outer extremities oftucking-plate A and folding-plate E, and up to the end of plate-holderB.L Fold the cloth over the extremity of folding-plate E, and up to stopK of tucking-gage D, and under cloth presser-foot l?. Starting themachine, the

cloth so folded is sewed through the fold rst mentioned, and folded downfor the next tuck by plate E, and creased and marked by presser-foot Pin the line of stop K. Gontinue the operation byplacingthe second tuckso creased, as first explained, and bringing over another fold. It' itis desired to tuck Without folding and preparing the second tuck,dispense with tucking-plate A and folding-plate E.

To bind, secure plate-holder B to the machine, as before explained, butthrough slot J, tucking-plate A being placed beneath it, as before, butin a reversed position, or the other end to it being used now, not as atucker at all, but only to get its securing-screw in position foradjusting set-screw L. Place plate F upon it, and guide G upon that,011e of its tongues, T, being thewidth ofthe binding from the end ofplate-holder B, which will keep it on 'a line with the edge of the clothbeneath felling-plate F.

To trimor sew on a binding away from the edge of the cloth, increase thespace between the tongue T, which is always to be on a line with theneedle, and the end of plate-holder B, up to which the cloth is to come.

To bind on the edge or sew the binding on bothsides of cloth, move guideG 'up until its tongue T is halt' the width of the binding from the endof plate-holder B, and turn the binding (see Fig. 7) around the innercurve of felling plate F, the cloth to be bound being between.

To fell, the paris are arranged as last described for binding upon theedge. One piece of cloth is broughtin, as was the binding in that case,and the other piece of cloth as was the cloth in that case. (See Fig.3.)- To fell with a shuttle-machine, which turns the fell by a hemmer,and for which my device is of use to prepare the fell, bring one edge ofone piece of cloth to the line ot plate-holder B, and felling-plate Fbeing extended the width of the desired fell, the other piece of clothis inserted in the lower space of felling-plate F, and the fell isprepared for completion in the ordinary way of turning down and sewingit in place. The gage is now a substitute for `basting, as

the inner curve of felling-plate F keeps one piece of cloth in place,and holding-plate B the other. (See Fig. 4.)

For plain seaming or sewing the edges o two pieces of cloth together,bring the inner curve of felling-plate F, as shown in Fig. 5, close to.holding-plate B, and place' the cloth as last above described, bringingthe two edges upon the line of sewing.

To hem, move felling-plate F out from holding-plate B, (sce Fig. 8,) asin felling, enough for the cloth to pass between its inner curve andplate B. Extend hemming-guide G the width of the hem, The inner curve offellingplate F will turn the cloth, and tongue T makes the second .turnby the cloth bearing against it, and thereby being turned under.'

For overhand-seaming, place guide G upon plate-holdei` B, (see Figs. 9and 9%) bottom up, and felling-plate F upon that, bottom up. Se-

'cure by set-screw L. Place one piece of cloth under the inner curve ofplate F, so placed, and

against ton gueT of guide G, so placed. Brin g the other piece of clothin the upper lrecess of plate F, which will bring the edges of the twopieces one above the other. The lower red lines represent the cloth asit leaves the gage.

What I cla1mandV desire to secure by Letters Patent, isl 1. The severaldevices of plate-holder B, tucking-plate A, folding-plate E, andtuckinggage D, or their equivalents, in combination with thepresser-foot of a sewing-machine, for the purpose of folding and markingor creasing a tuck, substantially as explained.

2. The combination of plate-holder B, tucking-plate A, felling-plate F,and felling-guide G, or their equivalents, constructed and operatingtogether substantially as and for the various purposes described.

3. The combination of plate-holder B with felling-plate F, constructedsubstantially as and for the purposes described.

. MARY A. DUFFY.

Witnesses: i

S. J. GORDON, GEO. H. COLLINS.

